I have been a longtime fan of Riesling. Many people turn their noses up at Riesling because they’ve never had a good one. Their concept of Riesling is that syrupy sweet concoction that, outside of a late harvest dessert wine, should never be drunk IMO.
While I’m on the topic, I always chuckle to myself when people say, Oh, I don’t drink white wine. Now, sometimes, people have a medical reason. But generally, they’re just trying to be wine snobs. My point of view on this is that if you like wine, you like all kinds of wine and you love to discover. I’m always much happier discovering new wineries and varietals I’ve never tasted than sticking with the same old same old.
This week’s New York Times Wines of the Times column focuses on Riesling, specifically American Riesling. Riesling is making a strong comeback in the U.S. though it may be premature to call it the new sauvignon blanc. Three of their top 10 wines were from Washington, which now has the largest Riesling acreage of any state in the U.S. One Oregon Riesling, Belle Pente’s 2005, made the top 10 at No. 7. Here’s what they had to say about it:
The 2005 Belle Pente from the Willamette Valley was the only Oregon riesling in our top 10, at No. 7. It was also the oldest bottle in the tasting, and it already showed a touch of kerosene, a pleasant sign of age in a riesling, but one you might wait another 10 years to find in European rieslings, which age far more slowly. Not that it’s fading fast — the wine was quite enjoyable.
I’ve not tried it, but am familiar with Belle Pente and have always been a fan of their Pinot Noir, which we always found to be a great value.
The NYT’ gave their top spot to Chateau Ste. Michelle’s Eroica. It is made in partnership with Ernst Loosen, the well known German Riesling producer from the Mosel region. I have tried Eroica and it’s good though didn’t blow me away.
I’ve also been a big fan of Lemelson’s Rieseling. They make a small quantity every year from a vineyard near their Carlton winery. I’ve found it to be crisp, minerally and very lemony. It’s quite thirst quenching and sometimes reminds me of lemonade. I would also recommend Chehalem’s Riesling. Harry Nedry, the winemaker there, has long believed in the importance of Riesling and contends that if you can’t make a good Riesling, you may struggle with the rest of your wines.
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