The most exquisite dinner to cross my lips last summer was enjoyed at The Cliff House Hotel in Ardmore, Co Waterford. The setting undoubtedly worked some magic: sitting in the glass-walled diningroom, you feel as if you are on the deck of an ocean liner as the last rays of sun turn the sea a glamorous, Hollywood shade of pinky-gold. But I am such a demanding eater that even the most thrilling ambience wouldn’t compensate one whit for so-so food. Here it didn’t have to try. The cooking of Dutch head chef Martin Kajuiter and his team was sublime – so it’s no surprise to hear that he has earned The Cliff House its first Michelin star.
Innovative without being silly, the food here is memorable for its pure, zingy flavours and perfect presentation. (You may find your thick slice of hot-smoked salmon still smoking enticingly under its cloche – both a visual and an aromatic treat.) Sommelier Anke Hartmann offers some delicious menu matches from the interesting wine list that she has built up. And, should you decide to stay (you should!), the bedrooms are a dream – outdone only by some astonishingly sybaritic bathrooms in which glass-walled showers offer the knockout combination of luxury ablutions with sweeping sea views.
Overseen by genial Adriaan Bartels (previously manager of Sheen Falls Lodge in Kenmare, Co Kerry), The Cliff House is one of Ireland’s most exciting hotels. Put it on your 2010 To Do list – although half of the charm, when you get there, is to do absolutely nothing.
www.thecliffhousehotel.com – tel +353 24 87800
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