Monday, October 12, 2009

Eisch — Breathable Glassware for Wine?

If you haven’t heard about Eisch Glaskultur, the wine glassware that has a unique “breathable quality,” I encourage you to check it out. Eisch applies a special “oxygenizing” treatment at the end of the manufacturing process that opens the nose of wine and softens the hard edges, particularly tannin and acidity. Amazingly, all of this happens within a few minutes after pouring, and can potentially have the same effect as an hour or two in a decanter. I know it sounds a little far fetched, but I have conducted numerous taste tests against comparable wine glasses and have experienced consistent results. I recently was involved in a tasting with both reds and whites and Eisch excelled again.

Eisch produces a wide line of glassware and decanters, but the three “breathable” wine glass lines regularly sold in the U.S. are Superior, Vino Nobile, and Vintec. I use the Vino Nobile and Vintec at home, and regularly put them in the dishwasher without any problems.

Admittedly (and amazingly), Eisch still sometimes does not show up on the radar of some wine industry veterans. Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher reviewed wine glasses in their Wall Street Journal column yesterday, “Glasses, the Background Music of Wine,” and Eisch did not even garner a mention, even though they analyzed 25 different glasses. I’m not sure how their “broad search” could generate an article—which I thought was good in all other aspects—that did not include some sort of a nod to Eisch.

Ronn Wiegand (www.restaurantwine.com/), Master of Wine and Master Sommelier, has conducted extensive tests and has noted that Eisch enhances the taste of a wide variety of wines. Recommendations do not come with much higher authority than that. I would encourage you, however, to conduct your own taste test and/or ask for an opinion from your favorite wine shop or restaurant. Even if you do not buy into the “breathable” aspect, the glasses are beautifully made and durable enough for even restaurant use. (www.eisch.de)

(Disclosure: The wine distributor I work for also sells Eisch Glaskultur. I write about food, wine, hotels and ancillary products that I sincerely enjoy and use. Inevitably I will, from time to time, have some sort of connection to the subject matter of my posts. I would like to think that this does not disqualify me from writing about subjects I appreciate. When the associations are substantial, such as Eisch, I will disclose them. I welcome your comments.)

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