Friday, March 5, 2010

Weekend in Napa: Terra, The French Laundry, and Etoile Restaurant at Domaine Chandon

My fiancé surprised me last weekend by taking me to my first trip to Napa. I have always wanted to go, but lack of opportunity kept me from getting to this much anticipated destination. We stayed at this beautiful hotel in Yountville called Bardessono, one of the most green hotels in the U.S. but strikingly well-designed; it’s uber chic but approachable and warm. We didn’t have dinner at their Italian restaurant (named after the hotel), but we enjoyed our complimentary breakfast with a buffet of local-centric foods, with an option of 4 warm dishes to choose from.

The first night was at Terra, a Michelin starred restaurant in St. Helena, about 15-20 minutes from our hotel. Set in a century-old fieldstone foundry, the restaurant is intimate and romantic. Hiroyoshi Sone and his wife, Lissa Doumani create  seasonal New American cuisine, focusing on Californian ingredients but with nods to France and Italy. But you can see Chef Sone’s Japanese sensibility which always seems to find its place in every dish. Yet, nothing is too complicated or overdone. Service was smooth and genuine, never overbearing. We loved how it made us feel that we were worlds away home, yet was still so comforting. Thank goodness for fine establishments like this–it’s been here for discerning Napa goers for 20 years for a reason, folks.

After getting tipsy from wine tastings at Domaine Carneros, Stag’s Leap, Silverado, and Rombauer wineries (no lunch didn’t help), my fiancé again surprised me to a foodie’s dream-come-true: a dinner at The French Laundry. Oh baby, yeah! I was so shocked but so ecstatic; I don’t really remember how we got to our table, or at least, it was a blur. But boy, do I remember what we tasted! We had the Chef’s Tasting of 9 courses (the other option was their Vegetarian Tasting of 9 courses). All the dishes that arrived were surprisingly minimal in presentation–no fancy footwork. But to me, it’s like watching a prima ballerina–they make it look so easy, so effortless, but it’s because they have an incredible amount of technique and experience. Look closely, and every little herb, every little flake, was placed with intent and purpose. Here, they want to showcase each ingredient; there’s no masking of flavors. Each course was like a Oscar-worthy movie, with the best actor, best supporting actress, best cinematography, and best director, with each role vital to the other. And the service is so seamless and balletic, there was no waiting or awkward, long pauses. You know their presence, but the servers somehow never get in your way of enjoying the food and your conversation. That’s called great orchestration; no matter how talented your musicians are, you have to have the right conductor to make them shine. We were so lucky enough to get a invitation to their kitchen. What an honor. I love seeing kitchens, because it reminds me of my days as a ballet dancer. It’s like walking backstage, where everything happens before it goes onstage to perform for the audience.

Our last day in Napa started at a wine tasting at Ma(i)sonry, which was close to our hotel and where we got to choose from several different flight tastings from various local, more boutique wineries. A historic landmark (and one time, brothel), it houses some fantasitc contemporary artwork along with vintage pieces and furnishings. In the back terrace area, we sat at one of their communal tables and selected some wines and was served some Pecorino cheese with nuts, dried cherries, and crackers. Some new wines we have fell in love with were L’Angevin, Peirson Meyer, Tamber Bey, and Brown Estate. It’s a great place to relax and enjoy various collections of rare and under the radar wines. A nice change if you want to be away from all the hustle and bustle of the more popular wineries in Napa.

Our last stop before we left was Domaine Chandon in Yountville, because I just had to have one more tasting of Californian sparkling wine which has captured my heart while I was in Napa. After having a couple different tastings together, my fiancé and I headed for some lunch at their Etoile Restaurant. The chef here, Perry Hoffman, was just nominated by James Beard as Rising Star Chef  of the Year. We didn’t have the opportunity to indulge in a full course lunch, but even with our few selections, we knew that this young chef is destined for greatness. Chef Hoffman showcases his culinary techniques with well-balanced flavors and presentation. It’s not groundbreaking cuisine, but it’s the simple, pedestrian dishes that are sometimes so challenging to elevate and impress. Somehow, he does that with ease.  All with some more Domaine Chandon Pinot Noir Rose…..Life is oh so good.

Thank you, Fiancé; I am a lucky girl :)

Terra Restaurant: 1345 Railroad Avenue, St. Helena, CA; Tel. (707) 963-8931; http://terrarestaurant.com/

The French Laundry: 6640 Washington Street,  Yountville, CA; Tel. (707) 944-2380; http://www.frenchlaundry.com/

Ma(i)sonry Napa Valley: 6711 Washington Street, Yountville, CA; Tel. (707) 944-0889; http://www.maisonry.com/

Etoile Restaurant at Domaine Chandon: 1 California Drive, Yountville, CA; Tel. 1-888-242-6366; http://www.chandon.com/

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