Friday, November 6, 2009

What a difference a clone makes

An interesting article I found on Australian grape clone trials. For once, quality not quantity seems to be the main concern. Potentially raises ethical issues in terms of species modification, however an interesting read:

“Clonal trials” may sound like science fiction but in reality they’re a big part of Australia’s maturing fine wine story. An exciting one too! Winemakers and viticulturists embrace new grapevine options with the same anticipation as artists view an expanded colour palette.

Each clone has distinct traits – in much the same way as a cherry tomato is different from a roma or beefsteak – and the potential is enormous. As Kim Chalmers, Director of Chalmers Wines, says: “Because Australian vineyard sites have a wide range of regional variation in aspect, elevation, climate and soil conditions there are potentially a multitude of varieties or clones which could be perfectly matched to those sites to create unique and complex wines.”

It’s not a quick business (Australia’s strict quarantine rules mean it can take 10 years from sourcing new material to producing the first crop) and, in the past, limitations in clonal variation have frustrated those wanting to achieve the best results. But things have changed in recent years thanks to the commitment of a number of leading nurseries, and a new range of clones is bringing great results and a massive jump in quality.

Chalmers Nurseries imported 70 new Mediterranean varieties and clones in 1998 and over the next decade collected more than a million cuttings and propagated 700,000 grafted vines from them. “Our commitment to experimentation and innovation is central to the Australian wine industry being able to maintain and regain markets as well as forge new ones in the years to come,” Kim says.

Nick Dry, viticulturist with Yalumba Nursery, is just as enthusiastic, and believes the importation of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir ‘Bernard’ clones from a program in Burgundy was a key to the development of these grape varieties in Australia.

“These clones were selected based on quality rather than yield and we are finding that their use has greatly enhanced wine quality and allowed our winemakers to more readily achieve the wine styles they aspire to create, both at the mainstream and fine wine levels,” Nick says.

“Since 2004 Yalumba Nursery has imported another 30 selections from Burgundy and we believe that each of these new clones has the potential to enhance wine quality, particularly with varieties where clonal diversity is currently limited such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Tempranillo and Pinot Gris.”

FoodstuffMelb
*excerpt sourced from Wine Australia

Wednesday, November 4, 2009

Wine Tasting Wednesday

I spent a good part of the tour hiking up my pants because I couldn’t find a belt to wear.

I took some pictures
(but my camera isn’t working right now so they’ll have to wait.)

 

Shared some lovin’ with D’Lovely

 

And I bought some wine. (Which has been put away on the alcohol shelf)

If we’re friends on facebook, you can see other pictures there.

Have you been to 12th Avenue Grill lately?

Honolulu’s original contemporary American bistro turned five this year. And 12th Avenue Grill is only getting better. A dinner two weeks ago, with three discerning eatizen joes and a jane from San Francisco in tow, elicited surprised cries of delight. As usual, the specials were all instant winnahs. Like this starter of Big Island boar in a broth with gnocchi, hamakua mushrooms and other stuff (I just wanted to enjoy dinner and didn’t take any notes, gah). It is a quintessential “chasseur” dish that signals autumn is finally here.


A duo of conch ceviche and grassfed beef carpaccio. I thought the conch would be like the briny rubberbands I had in Key West long ago, instead it was tenderly chewy. Instant winnah.


My favorite dish of the night—simple and scintillatingly delicious won bok salad with bacon-wrapped dates. A local play on my favorite raciones—bacon-wrapped mountain apple. Amazing how sweet and caramelized the naturally mild fruit got. Could eat this for daze.

Couldn’t pass up skirt steak in a classic port reduction. Underneath this meatfest is a cache of blue cheesed mashed spuds. Intense. Intensely wonderful.

Like I said, I didn’t take notes, but these were exactingly cooked scallops, soft and sweet in a beet coulis (I think!). In any case—instant winnah.


I rarely order chicken, but one of my dining companion’s honey-ginger-glazed chicken convinced me that is what I will order on my next visit. Crazily moist. The sweet balanced by the earthiness of the mushroom ragout hat.

Yes, this mango upside-down cakelette was as good as it looks.

News: 12th Avenue Grill now offers a very happy hour, called Craft Bar, Tuesdays, Wednesdays & Thursdays, 5:30-6:30 p.m. Perch at the red oak bar for microbrews ($3), seasonal martinis ($4), tapas ($5-$8). Plus the restaurant’s popular 8-oz. ground chuck burger can be had for $7.

The restaurant also had a Fall Rhône Wine Dinner on Oct. 28. I was sorry to have missed it and hope another comes up soon. I’ll keep you posted.

Pink set to buy her own vineyard

Pink is apparently thinking about splashing out on a vineyard.The Funhouse singer is hoping to follow in the footsteps of stars like Sting and create her own wine so wants a place where she can concoct some fine brews.

And it seems the star – who recently patched things up with hubby Carey Hart after some time apart – has already seen a vineyard she likes.

The wines that will be produced are not known yet but she will definitely have to have a Rosé wine. Think about it-   Pink’s Pink Wine or a Most Girls Rosé.

Source: entertainment.uk.msn.com

Monday, November 2, 2009

Local Wine Doc On TV This Week

It is thought that Kentucky was home to the nation’s first commercial winery. After a drop in production during prohibition and the following decades, bluegrass vintners are making a comeback, even though they have limited options for hocking their wares.

If any of this is interesting to you, then you may want to tune in to KET on Thursday for Vintage Kentucky: The Vine To Wine Experience.

Business First reports that the 30-minute documentary is produced by “Louisville advertising, public relations and marketing agency New West LLC, the Kentucky Grape and Wine Council and the Kentucky Department of Agriculture.”

Here’s our take on the future of Kentucky wine.

Drinking my way through Vinoteca's Wine List - 2004 Riesling from Rolly Gassman, Alsace France £13.50

I was recently going through my bank statment, and it became clear as to where a lot of my money goes. One word WINE.

I love wine, the reason I left Canada was to come and work in the UK wine industry, London is a haven for wine lovers. Where else in the world can you get your hands on such a wide range of wines? The UK has been a main importer of wine since Roman times!

Most of the wine I drink is from Vinoteca’s wine list, this is due obviously to convenience, plus my handy staff discount, but mostly because it is packed full of excellent good value wines.  I’ve decided to start sharing my thoughts on the wines I drink, and the meals I enjoy them with.

On Friday afternoon I had purchased some veal escalope from the Smithfield Buthcers, planning on schnitzel for Sunday dinner. With this in mind I grabbed a bottle fo 2004 Rolly Gassman Riesling, which I figured would go well with a German inspired meal. I still hadn’t decided on a side dish, and in the end I veered away from Germany and went for a Sicilian side dish Caponata. My Sicilian friend Vicky had mentioned that Veal escalope was a dish they eat quite often in Sicily, so I figured they would go well together. Then it dawned on me, will Caponata go with Alsatian Riesling!?

We sat down to dinner, and I must say it was one of my best meals to date. The caponata was very good, not too oily or vinegary, and with just enough sweetness, which worked really well with the schnitzel. We also had a side of brussel sprouts, a bit of an odd addition, but they are just coming into season, I couldn’t leave them out! What was so astonishing about this meal, was how well the Riesling worked with each element of the dish, even the brussel sprouts! This style of Riesling is a classic one with some residual sugar, but not too much, which was balanced out by the sweetness in the caponata, as well as the the brussel sprouts. The ‘04 Rolly Gassman has a little bit of age, which brought in some complexity, texture, and great depth of flavour, along with fresh acidity, which cut through the fattiness of the fried schnitzel. I was very impressed how well this wine stood up to such a flavourful dish!

Caitlin

Gerties & Alibi Room


Tuesday Nights see both of these venues packed full of locals denying the weekly grind and celebrating student life. Arrive between 6 & 8pm, for a (few) drinks and a satisfying feed – easily paid for with a ten dollar note.

What: Enjoy 2-4-1 food & drinks (Gerties) & Cheap drinks & tacos (Alibi)

When: Every Tuesday night! 6pm-11pm

Where: 699 & 720 Brunswick St, New Farm (gmap)

Links: Gerties, The Alibi Room